Budget Traveler´s Guide to Living in Buenos Aires: Part 1

November 27, 2008

During my stay in Buenos Aires, four out of the five people in the room used the Lonely Planet guide, and everyone agreed on one thing: while the information was useful, it was woefully out of date. Many of the restaurants closed or moved, and the price ranges they gave were inaccurate.

This isn’t an attempt to bash Lonely Planet. They put together authoritative guides, which explains why everyone purchases their books. But as more people use the Lonely Planet guides, local hot spots transform into tourist attractions, the unbeaten path gets trampled on, and the laws of supply and demand go into effect. Prices go up, especially as a country like Argentina recovers from its economic crash. Not a problem if you have cash to burn. If you’re trying to stretch your dollar/peso though, you might find yourself dangerously short on money.

My Constraints in Living this Guide

I’m a recent graduate from Rutgers University who saved up a decent amount of money during my four years at university by working three to four jobs during the school year. After graduating, I worked for a few weeks in California, then waited tables in upstate NY for a month while I started writing a book. During this time, I started preparing for my trip. I bought my ticket mid-September, and departed on October 2, 2008.

My material wants are extremely modest, and I can do without things like big fluffy towels, and if pressed, eating three meals a day. Keep these provisions in mind as you read Part 1 of the guide:

Living

You can go ahead and spend a few hours looking up prices and debating which hostel is best suited for you. Here’s my recommendation: Hostal de Granados, on Chile 374. For $8.33 per night in a mixed dorm, you get a clean room with decent beds, hot water 24 hours a day, a fairly nice staff, and free breakfast. The breakfast only consists of two medialunes and a cup of coffee, but get used to it: it’s a porteno breakfast. There’s a kitchen and refrigerator for storing food, a television (why would you need it?) and one shared computer for free Internet. Besides free Wi-Fi, there aren’t many other bonus amenities, but at $8.33 you’re getting a great deal.

Hostal de Granados 1

Hostal de Granados 1

Hostal de Granados 2

Hostal de Granados 2

Hostal de Granados 3

Hostal de Granados 3

Hostel de Granados is in the San Telmo area, which has a quiet, un-touristy atmosphere. Many streets are cobbled, and the locals running the stores will easily recognize you the second time you come in – though it might be because they don’t see many Chinese folks in the area. Either way, people are friendly, and the prices will be the lowest in most of Buenos Aires.

San Telmo 1

San Telmo 1

San Telmo 2

San Telmo 2

Bonus Tip 1: (Borrowed from Lonely Planet) Don’t exchange money at the first cambio (money exchange) you see in the BA International Airport. You’ll get a better rate at the Banco de Argentina, just a couple hundred feet down. After Immigration x-rays your bags for (hopefully) the last time, you’ll head into the area where cabs and buses await. Veer to the right, and you’ll find the Banco de Argentina. Be sure to ask for moneidas (coins.) There’s something of a scarcity in the country.

Bonus Tip 2: If you really want to save money, take Bus No. 86 from the airport to get to your hostel. It’s much cheaper than a taxi (1.50 persos – this is why you asked for moneidas!) but takes between 2.5 to 3 hours to get there. If you’re not familiar with Buenos Aires and you’re headed for Hostel de Granados, don’t worry, you can go ahead and nap for the first two hours. After you wake up, be vigilante for Plaza De Mayo, then the streets Venezuela, Mexico, and finally Chile, where you can get off.

Bonus Tip 3: Have you considered couch surfing? Couchsurfing.com is an online community of travelers who believe the best way to take in a city is by living with locals. To that effect, couch surfers in the community offer others a place to crash whenever they can. The catch? It’s a give and take system – in the near future, you should be willing to host others. Questions of safety obviously come up, but you can learn more about how couchsurfing.com tries to promote safety by checking out their site.

Couch from couchsurfing

Couch from couchsurfing

Want to know how you can save money on food and drink in Buenos Aires? Part 2 on its way!

What do you think about these tips? Do you have any money saving tips from your traveling adventures?